A Maze of Markets

Saturday we decided to something brave: go on an outing just by ourselves. We’d always had a student or friend to take us sight-seeing before—but we felt confident enough now to fly solo.

So at 8:45 a.m. (getting an early start is crucial on these blazing hot February days) we crossed Lat Phrao Road and caught the #8 bus (air-conditioned!) and started on our adventure. We had taken the same route with Nui to the Jim Thompson House, so I was fairly confident I could remember the correct stop. And I did! (Okay, no big deal, but anyone over 70 worries about things like that.)

We stepped off the bus into a warren of shops, higgledy-piggledy crammed side by side, all sheltered by corrugated tin roofing. Small aisles led off in all directions, past every kind of shop imaginable: sports clothes, artificial flowers, silk scarves, handbags, elephant pants, wood carvings, paper goods, juice bars, caps, hats, street food, pottery, socks, bath towels, dried fruits, tea sets, pedicures, key chains, coin purses, massages, tapestries, women’s dresses, women’s blouses, children’s pajamas, shoes, kitchenware….Well, you get the picture.


Most of these women’s dresses/skirts/pants were selling for 
$3-10 (100-350 Thai bhat). Lovely colors and patterns.




Want a doodad? Lots for sale at JJ Market.

Take a closer look. Those are shoes. Thousands of them.
All cheap. All knock-offs.


Hundreds of aisles stretching vast distances, all crammed with shops.
We got lost several times.


Here are the facts: JJ Market has 15,000 stalls, spread over 35 acres. Here are a few photos from above, trying to show the breadth of this market maze:

View of JJ Market to the right from the third floor of an adjoining mall.

View of JJ Market to the left. Still doesn’t capture it all.

It’s possible to spend a week there and still not hit every stall. We found that, after an hour’s wandering, we’d seen enough. The heat was oppressive, so we escaped into an air-conditioned mall for an early lunch.

Note Phil’s shirt and all the red lanterns.
We’re still celebrating Chinese New Year!

We fought our way back to the street through the growing crowds of tourists (I heard at least ten different languages) and successfully caught the right bus and found our way home. We were pleased at finally having explored JJ Market (a “don’t miss” Bangkok experience, according to guide books).

What did we buy? Coffee and a mango smoothie. Two silk scarves. A handbag. A lovely, flowing pajama pant. Some hand-made books.

What did we gain? Some great memories, and the satisfaction of having managed an outing all on our own. We are beginning to feel a little like natives.



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